Tamsui's proximity to metropolitan Taipei intensifies the effects of its peaceful atmosphere. The two different but complementary environments are conveniently accessible to each other, making available all the eclectic attractions of Tamsui-its aesthetically comfortable blend of old and new set in breathtaking scenery-as well as a profundity of urban amenities. The village is, accordingly, deservedly popular as an ideal place to live as well as to visit.
That 16th Century Portuguese mariners could well have been moved to exclaim "ilha formosa!" (beautiful island) as they sailed into the estuary of the Tamsui River, is evidenced by the area's white, sandy beaches and lush, green vegetation, stretching back from the sea to steep mountains, rising dramatically towards the heavens. Mt. Kuanyin, named after the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, looms over the river, opposite the village, a serene guardian for the entire Tamsui estuary, site of both an excellent port and of an expedient route to the wealth of the Taiwan interior. Once a major point of entry for Chinese immigrating to Taiwan from Fukien Province on the mainland, by the early 1600s, Tamsui had become important enough to be a bone of strategic contention between the Dutch and Spanish, then fighting for dominion over Taiwan.
The Spanish, capturing Tamsui inn 1629, constructed Fort San Domingo on the side of a nearby hill there commanding the river. The fort was a formidable bastion with four cannons and 1.2-meter-thick red brick walls. Nevertheless, in 1642, Tamsui fell to the Dutch and was subsequently dubbed "The Red Hairs' Fort" by the Chinese, bemused by the sight of Dutchmen with flaming tresses. Tamsui was finally reclaimed by the Chinese in the early 1660s, when the great Ming Dynasty warrior Cheng Cheng-kung (Koxinga) led an army into Taiwan to drive out the foreign forces. The incorporation of the territory of Taiwan into Fukien Province by the Ching Dynasty in 1862, marked also the beginning of another large influx of immigrants from Fukien, once again raising the importance of the port facilities at Tamsui. Tamsui grew and prospered as more immigrants came from the mainland.
In 1860, the port of Tamsui was opened by the Ching Dynasty to foreign trade. The later-to-be-famous naturalist Robert Swinhoe soon opened a British consulate in old Fort San Domingo. As trade with the West increased, trading ships crowded the port to take on cargos of tea, which was then in great demand in Europe and the Americas. But it was not to last. The Franco-Chinese war of 1884-1885, which gravely disrupted Tamsui's lucrative trade, foreshadowed the end of its heyday as an international port. The initial trade obstacle at the time was physical, instituted by order of a Manchu Imperial commissioner, Liu Ming-chuan—20 ships filled with stones were sunk at the mouth of the river to prevent the French fleet from entering the port and advancing upriver into the heartland. This defensive measure not only sealed off the area but accelerated an accumulation of silt that gradually diminished, and eventually terminated, the area's usefulness as a major port.
Perhaps it was meant to be that Tamsui should ever remain a bustling, charming fishing village, rather than grow into a major port city.
In the narrow, dusky lanes of the market, the vendors light up their products, even at mid-day
Today's fishermen pole brightly painted traditional boats across the tidal shallows at the first intimations of dawn, much as their forefathers, leaving the watcher with the deeply reassuring feeling of a steady beat onward of the pulse of life, regardless of all the exigencies in the inexorable flow of history. Everyday, in the silence of early morning, fishermen here have for centuries cast out their lines to harvest the wealth of the sea. Today, the boats are powered by unseen engines; however, many of the techniques, and definitely the fishermens' spirits, remain unaltered by the passage of time. The hum of their engines, disappearing into the roar of the sea at the river's mouth, on the one hand represents modernization's facilitation of life, but on the other, its ultimate subsumption into life's immutable flow.
The fishermen seem always to return with a bountiful catch, and the Tamsui marketplace then always springs to life.
The narrow, winding alleys of the market area are crammed with vendors selling the harvests of both land and sea-fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, and seafoods tempt crowds undertaking the daily ritual of preparing for the day's meals. The sounds of the crowd and the differing scents of fresh foods join in a collage of vivacity increasingly rare in a modern world distanced from the heartbeat of life.
The vitality of Tamsui's marketplace extends to its many small restaurants and outdoor foodstands, whose speciality dishes are truly an epicurian's delight. They are especially packed in the evenings, when people take the leisure to relax over a fine meal and conversation.
In the midst of all the bustle and clamor of the Tamsui marketplace stands the more than two-century-old Lung Shan Temple, its elegant "swallow tail" rooflines towering over colorful canopies in the market alleys. Two stone lions stand vigil, joined by door gods painted onto three large entrance gates. The temple's intricately carved, solid stone pillars are particularly impressive. Though the temple is presently undergoing renovation, the people of Tamsui still come to pay their respects to its gods, particularly the auspicious Taoist deity Matsu.
Legend has it that the pious woman who would later become the goddess Matsu lived in a fishing village on a small island off the coast of Fukien Province sometime around 690 A.D. The island village was threatened by two monsters who obliged the people to sacrifice a young girl to them every year. One year, Matsu volunteered to act as the sacrifice. However, the strength of her piety was so great that she defeated the monsters instead and made them her servants. Today, the statues of her two servants, Chien Li Yen (Thousand Mile Eye) and Shun Feng Er (With the Wind Ear), stand in front of the altar, ready to aid Matsu in her principal tasks-calming the seas and safe-guarding mariners. The fishermen of Tamsui rarely leave shore without invoking the protection of Matsu.
The newer Ching Shui Temple is but a short walk from Lung Shan Temple, up a steep, narrow, winding alley through the marketplace. Precipitous steps leading to the main entrance of the temple intensify the feeling of ascent as well as an appreciation of the fine view of the river and Mt. Kuanyin. Ching Shui was erected about fifty years ago and is larger than Lung Shan. Yet it too offers the elegant classic architecture and Fukien style roofs of its neighbor. The Ching Shui Temple is particularly important as the residence of a special Buddhist deity.
Before the silhouetted rooflines of the Ching Shui Temple, senior citizens gather to enjoy the air and exchange memories and opinions
According to legend, the incarnate Ching Shui was a pious Buddhist who was badly burned in a battle with a demon. He is, accordingly, always represented as having a black face. The story is told that a temple robber accidentally broke the nose from Ching Shui's statue. The next day, the monks glued it back on. However, thenceforth, whenever a disaster has impended, Ching Shui's nose has fallen onto his chest or his sleeve. Many murals in the temple depict the pious deeds of Ching Shui as well as his physical transfer from Fukien to Tamsui.
There are stages in front of both temples where plays and puppet shows are held from time to time for the entertainment and edification of the general populace as well as the gods.
The character of Tamsui is also heavily shaped by the presence of the Tamsui Junior College of Industrial and Commercial Management (formerly Oxford College) and by the Tamkang University of Arts and Science. The schools nourish culture, and the influx of young people brings with it new ideas and lifestyles.
The students find in the beautiful scenery, the convenient shopping and entertainment facilities, and the traditional charms of Tamsui a relaxing environment in which to carryon their studies. Many students later become permanent residents, making their homes in the village. The old Oxford College was established in 1882 by a Canadian missionary, the Reverend George Mackay, who married a Taiwanese girl and dedicated his life to the island's people. Oxford, originally a theological college housed in attractive brick buildings with stained glass windows, is today's Tamsui Junior College.
Tamkang University is known as one of Taiwan's finest private universities. Its large, verdant campus, located on a hill overlooking Tamsui, provides a fine view across the river and is done in a tastefully blended architectural combination of old Chinese palace style and modern high rises. The university now offers an advanced computer center and a distinguished chemistry department, adding to its long renown as a fine college focusing on English and on Western literature.
The Tamsui area is a wonderful recreation conglomerate for residents, students, and weekend visitors alike. A leisurely stroll through the village opens opportunities for visits to handicraft shops and antique stores, for contemplation of historic sights, or simply for a delicious and leisurely meal in full view of the river.
The fishing boats crowd the harbor, and their comings and goings control the pulse of the marketplace
Tamsui sunsets are famous for their beauty. The river, shimmering in sundown shades of orange, red, and purple, gently rocks its silhouetted fishing boats. Then, the sun slips behind the ridge of Mt. Kuanyin in a final blaze of color.
People gather at the river's edge nightly, armed with all kinds of camera equipment, so intent on capturing the sunset that they are unaware that it has actually captured them.
Another perspective of the sunset is attained by means of the small ferry across the river to Pali. Originally, this was the only means of crossing the river in this area, but now the recently constructed Kuantu Bridge, whose three graceful arches can be seen from Tamsui, has taken over most of the traffic. The ferry's present role is more romantic and recreational than practical, the waves gently lapping against the wooden hull as sea breezes sweep across its deck.
When all is said and done, Tamsui's greatest charm lies in its verdant distance from so many of the urban accessories to modern man
For the more energetic, Tamsui presents a host of scenic bicycle routes. And the excellent Tamsui golf and country club, the oldest in Taiwan, offers one of the finest and most challenging courses in all East Asia-many major tournaments are held here. Beckoning swimmers are the sandy beaches and warm waters at Shalun, especially in summer when a dip provides a refreshing respite from the heat. Shalun is provided with a snack and beverage bar and freshwater showers. For mountain climbers, there are breathtaking views from the many high vantages around Tamsui.
Though Tamsui has grown and progressed with the expansion of its metropolitan Taipei neighbor, it has not been subsumed into the outer suburbs of the big city but has retained its distinguishing character-all the modern conveniences and facilities one could ask for, including quick access to a major metropolis ... plus, that special, comfortable small town atmosphere with a something extra, that, like a fine brandy, only comes with age. The special charms of the area have attracted many to settle as well as to visit and have made Tamsui one of the Republic of China's "favorite places."
It has long remained, at heart, essentially un changed, and each time I watch Its fishing boats glide towards the sea in the foreground of Mt. Kuanyin, I feel deeply confident that it will continue to remain so for a long time to come.